The Cremasco family planted their first rows at 600 metres above sea level in 1996, and the logic of the place hasn't shifted much since. Estate Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Glera grow in volcanic Macedon soils; Nebbiolo and Lagrein come from Heathcote's Cambrian earth. Wines are unfined, indigenous-yeast fermented where possible, unsulphured. The architect-designed cellar door — reclaimed timber, upstairs dining room overlooking the vines — runs an enoteca menu Friday to Sunday.
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