Lethbridge @ HatRock Vineyard

Ray and Maree's Bellarine cellar door is approaching 30 years deep in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay — but the more interesting shelves hold the offshoots. Nadeson Collis Coda draws from a solera started in 2003; the NV Yellow Ray is a straight homage to Jura's Vin Jaune. Serious, idiosyncratic wines worth the detour.