Fraser GallopEstate

Nigel Gallop planted 50 acres in Wilyabrup's gravel-over-clay without irrigation, forcing roots a metre down before the first commercial crop arrived seven years later. The resulting vines — Houghton-clone cabernet on north-facing slopes, Gingin chardonnay below — produce small, intense berries. Wild yeasts, French oak, hand-picking: the winery built in 2008 does little to interrupt what the land has already done.